THE face of Paris changes day by day, and having spent the last 14 months re-researching The Food Lover's Guide to Paris as an app for the iPhone, I can say that the changes in the wind are highly positive, writes Patricia Wells.
Young chefs are moving into less expensive, out-of-the-way areas, opening smaller restaurants with well priced menus.
Some of my favourites include Geoffroy Maillard’s La Table D'Eugene, for his market-fresh tartare de daurade (18 rue Eugène Sue, Paris 18; +33 1 42 55 61 64) and Philippe Damas’s Philou for old-fashioned bistro fare, such as pigs’ cheeks and calf’s liver (12 avenue Richerand, Paris 10; +33 1 42 38 00 13).
Also Bertrand Grébaut’s Septime, for a stunning as well as daring veal tartare paired with oysters and mashed potatoes (80 rue de Charonne, Paris 11; +33 1 43 67 38 29), and Eiji Doïhara’s Le Sot-L'Y-Laisse, for the chicken oysters mixed with mushrooms and cream broth (70 rue Alexandre Dumas, Paris 11; +33 1 40 09 79 20.)
But old-time favourite restaurants draw me back time and time again, and those include William Ledeuil’s Ze Kitchen Galerie (4 rue des Grands Augustins, Paris 6; +33 1 44 32 00 32) for his remarkable and original French-Asian fusion fare.
Mark Williamson’s always winning Willi's Wine Bar (13 rue des Petits-Champs, Paris 1; +33 1 42 61 05 09) for great roast poultry and the incomparable terrine au chocolat and Bertrand Auboyneau’s Bistrot Pail Bert (18 rue Paul Bert, Paris 11; +33 1 43 72 24 01) for the reborative steaks and fries and unmatched Paris Brest dessert.
The city remains a chocolate lover’s paradise with such new boutiques as that of Henri Le Roux for his stunning caramels au beurre salé (1 rue Bourbon le Château, Paris 6; +33 1 82 28 49 80), new shops for ice cream dreams including a memorable yoghurt sorbet (Martine Lambert, 30 rue Cler, Paris 7; +33 1 40 62 97 19) and coffee shops for true caffeine addicts Coutume Café (47 rue de Babylone, Paris 7; +33 1 45 51 50 47.)
Meanwhile, markets continue to charm, and my current favourites include the marche President Wilson (avenue du Président Wilson between rue Debrousse and place d’Iéna, Paris 16), where on Wednesday and Friday one finds some of the city’s finest fish and vegetable merchants.
While each Sunday morning Parisians flock to the popular organic market along the Boulevard Raspail (between Rue du Cherche-Midi and Rue de Rennes, Paris 6) for a stunning selection of fruits, vegetables, grains, fish and dairy.
The Food Lover's Guide to Paris is available as an app for Apple devices running iOS 5.
Patricia Wells, journalist, author and cooking teacher, is an American who has lived in Paris since 1980. Author of 11 books, she served as restaurant critic for the International Herald Tribune and writer and editor for The Washington Post and The New York Times. (Author photograph by Stephen Ellison)